One thing everyone agreed on was how unusually hot and humid it was that weekend. (Even though it’s monsoon season in the Southwest, it’s been a more humid summer than usual.)

Lifesavers at Indian Market: The water brigade from St. Michael's High School, Santa Fe

The Santa Fe Indian Market goes through various cycles over the years, always trying to tack forward with modernized artist entry processes. It may be that in the years ahead, the older, more traditional artists who never learned to use computers trail away from this modernizing process. One complaint that never goes away, however, is how some booths contain works with designs that have been appropriated from other established artists. Most artists frown on having their works photographed. This comes from a realization that Indian arts still continue to be plagued by fraud, imitation, and misrepresentation.

One last note: Despite being on my feet all day, I still didn’t get to see every artist’s booth, and in fact missed some good individuals.

On your feet all day in Santa Fe!

A view of Santa Fe Indian Market (along the Plaza).

What I did notice, however, was a change in the early morning crowds. These are generally the collectors, devotees who camp out and cluster possessively around their favorite artist’s booth. Their numbers were lighter than I’d ever seen before. Now, this doesn’t mean that high end and major collectors weren’t buying; they reportedly were doing so but were quieter about it, arranging sales through dealers established at the local hotels. Indian Market early morning collectors, however, often are the very people (like myself) who find themselves having leaner, less discretionary-type funds this year.

The artists have the most telling report, and theirs was generally positive. Popular artists sold out quickly or went home with most of their inventory gone. Many felt upbeat, but the long term mood remains wary. This recession is still out there.

One view of the ever-changing New Mexico sky (near Taos).

These Southwestern clouds billow and drift and dance in swaths of white and translucent gray. Rain hangs down from them like curtains. Thunderclouds spread across the sky in looming menace. New Mexico’s clouds are signs and portents. Wispy coral and pink strands in the evening promise beauty for the next day.

Storm clouds and "walking rain" in northern New Mexico.

Such clouds tell us that beauty is all around. Thus starts our visit to the Land of Enchantment.

An interesting note: I saw fewer heishi sellers from Kewa Pueblo than in the past, and fewer beaders and fetish carvers. Jewelry remained predominant. Prices for adornment were definitely higher than what one found at the Heard Museum Guild Fair and Indian Market in March. Pottery seemed strong , a trend that has been steady for a while. 

Below is what you need to have when touring SWAIA Indian Market.

Some collectors, including myself, actually don’t really like Indian Market precisely because great work is on sale to the highest bidder, and we don’t have the funds to compete with certain fellow collectors. Many collectors and enthusiasts go to Indian Market with a budget, and usually lose out on pieces they’d really have liked to own. I remember such an experience many years ago when I first started collecting. The jeweler Ray Tracey had made a fabulous pink coral ring I really wanted. He saw me eyeing it and gallantly pulled it out and slipped it onto my finger with a flourish. It fit like it was made for me. Holding my breath, I asked, “How much?”

He said, “$2,000.”

I remember crying for half an hour on line for the bathroom at the La Fonda Hotel.

In other words, if your previous experience with buying Indian arts is purchasing things as cheaply as possible, Indian Market is not for you. First of all, the organization SWAIA runs this market with fairly stringent rules for the artists. They have to make and represent the things they display according to honesty in materials and workmanship. Much of this is meant to overcome the shadow of devious, cut-rate buying and selling, which often includes materials that are not authentic Indian-made.

Four high-quality Native American rings, the type you'll find at Indian Market.

Therefore, prices on art at Indian Market are what the artists says they are. They aren’t interested in haggling, and many will rightfully be insulted if you ask for a “best price” or cash discount. This gambit can be tried on Sunday in the afternoon, when artists are getting ready to pack up — and even then you may still encounter hostility.

Indian Market has been around since the early 1920s. It’s now a well-established event, and represents a critically important selling market for many Native artists. Many of these artists, especially those who are older and more traditional in lifestyle, find this to be a “make or break” experience. Therefore, this is not one of those Indian arts markets that are relaxed and comfortable. In fact, the Market goes through several collective “phases” and the newcomer should be aware of them.

The first phase is when the Market starts in earnest before dawn on Saturday. This first morning, in fact, is “serious collector time,” and the atmosphere reflects this. While most artists arrive around 7 a.m. or so, many will have a line-up of people waiting at their booths. These are the serious collectors, many who have already been waiting for hours. In reward for their patience, they have first crack at the artist’s goods, and no newcomer, however brave, should dare to buck this front line. There’s also a small number of artists whose works are so in demand that they sell out and are gone from the Market by 11 a.m. The entire Saturday morning crackles with this inherent tension until the collectors have completed their essential rounds.

You should also know that the “best stuff,” at least as far as collectors are concerned, is gone by noon that day. Do not despair, though, there are still wonderful riches laid out in every booth you visit.

Vintage Native baskets on display on the ceiling of the Hubbell Trading Post, Ganado, AZ

Older Indian arts tend to be expensive and collector competition is extensive. If you’re not already part of the game, and acquainted with certain dealers, take these shows slowly and carefully. There is much to be learned here. One rationale for a newcomer: play close attention to the physical condition of a piece you’re interested in. Listen in on conversations between dealers and clients—you’ll learn some interesting, not always arcane, facts about Native-made antiques. Remember, too, that some antique goods aren’t that old as European goods are; for example, Southwestern Indian metal jewelry only began as a craft within a decade after the end of the Civil War.

Four Corners Monument, when it was open (we visited there in Oct. 2007)

Yes, until September the Four Corners Monument is closed on Mondays through Thursdays for construction, and this information can be found on the Navajo Nation’s website. Unfortunately, many tourists driving through the Navajo Reservation don’t bother with checking this site. I’m sorry for the families that wanted the joyous experience of standing with a limb in four states at the same time (I did that, too, a long time ago), but in terms of Indian arts no one is missing a thing. Twelve miles down the road is Teec Nos Pos Trading Post, and there’s a genuine, delightful shopping experience.

Who says Four Corners isn't beautiful? (Shiprock in the distance.)

An Easter Rabbit effigy in the Hopi Katsina exhibit in the Heard Museum.

Figures which do not represent one of the many and diverse katsina spirits are known as effigies. These can range from comic renditions of neighboring tribes to humorous interpretations of the trickster in animal form. Should you run across an artist selling such wares at one of the Indian arts markets, take a good long look. You will walk away smiling.